Diversity, representation & cultural appropriation

The issue of cultural appropriation starts with a sense of superiority and a façade of authority used to take advantage of marginalised ethnic communities' traditions and heritage without giving them credit. This has been a problem since the times of colonisation and is still present today in every nook and cranny of the fashion world, where designers attempt to pass it off as inspiration rather than genuinely acknowledging the sources. The fashion industry is a western concept that has frequently been adapted from native cultures.

Cross-cultural influences have always existed and have enriched the industry, but when it comes to dealing with ethics, there should be a specific boundary and respect. People from these backgrounds understand that their culture is valued and that their legacy should be honoured, but because companies and designers capitalise on this without respecting the locals' values and beliefs, they put their communities at risk of losing their long-standing customs and crafts.This is not only about the economic injustice but also misusing the traditional designs which have moral, social, cultural and spiritual significance.

Inability to acknowledge the underlying meaning behind traditional patterns and symbols harms people who have fought for generations to preserve their culture. Traditional patterns and symbols serve more than just an aesthetic function. Culture is the culmination of a community's history, including the customs and beliefs that have grown over time and are ingrained in its physical surroundings.

The talk referenced OSKLEN's SS16 Ashaninka collection as a prime illustration of this. In addition to giving the South American tribe credit and a percentage of sales, the designer also documented the process, highlighting the tribe's iconography to their advantage.